Shoe construction



March 18, 1947. E. c. NEUNUEBE'L 2,417,776

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed July 5, 1945 45+ 36 INVENTOR EDWARD 6. NEUNUEBEL I ATTORN Patented Mar. 18, 1947 UNITED STATES OFFICE 3 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in shoe construction, and more particularly to improved shoes of those types in which the uppers are assembled to a sole structure by means of thongs or thong-like elements. The invention is particularly, although not exclusively, adapted to the construction of women's shoes of so-called slip-lasted, platform or California types.

Among the more important objects of the invention may be noted an added strengthening in the zones of securement of the upper to a platform assembly in a slip-lasted shoe, this improvement being attained through a novel interlaced connection of these elements.

Yet another object is realized in conjunction with the structural advantages afforded, by providing numerous possibilities for ornamentation of the shoe in those zones adjacent the sole assembly and marginally of the quarters or upper.

A further important object of the present improvements is attained in an improved usage of the doubled portion of material in the zone of the seam line joining certain or all of the platform cover strip portions, and the sock lining or inner sole, as a convenient longitudinal anchorage for attachment, as by thong elements, of the upper portions of the shoe.

Yet another object of the invention is attained in an improved structure characterized by increased strength in the zone of the attachment of upper to sole structure, coupled with an improved facility for the formation in this zone of a row of spaced ornamental and ventilating apertures.

A marked objective advantage is attained in a shoe structure, such as to result in an enhanced flexibility of the upper, particularly in a longitudinal direction, with respect to the sole structure; also in attaining a, better conformity of the upper to the foot of the wearer, with added comfort.

The foregoing and numerous other objectives and advantages of the invention will be more clearly perceived from the following detailed description of a preferred embodiment, particularly when considered in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Fig, 1 is an isometric view of an inner sole or sock lining to which is secured as by stitching, a forward platform cover strip and a. rear platform cover strip;

Fig. 2 is atransverse section of the'sub-assembly of Fig. 1 as viewed along line 2--2 thereof;

Fig. 3 is a view of an attachment'piece carried by the vamp portions of the shoe showing one manner of forming thereon integral tongue or thong elements;

Fig. 4 is a transverse sectional elevation of a completed shoe embodying the elements illustrated by precedin figures, and as viewed in a vertical plane across the vamp of the shoe, particularly as indicated by line 4-4 of Fig. 5, and

Fig. 5 is a side elevation of a completed shoe of the structure shown by Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4.

Referring now by characters of reference to the drawing, the improvements will be described in reference to a so-called slip-lasted shoe, shoes of this general construction, as well known and prevalently utilized, including an inner sole or sock lining i5 and, as a marginal enclosure about the usual platform or intermediate sole element it, ther are employed a forward platform cover strip El and a rear platform cover strip l8. While it is possible to form the platform cover strips I1 and [8 of a single element, it is more expedient in production to form them separately, and to provide for their overlapping relation in an intermediate or shank zone of the shoe, more usually the platform cover strip portion l8 overlapping the rear end margins of strip portion l1. These portions are, however, collectively referred to in ensuing description and in the claims, as a platform cover strip or cover strip portions. The inner sole or sock lining l5 may as understood, consist of a single integral piece of soft leather, or may if desired, be composed of any desired plurality of thicknesses suitably marginally or otherwise stitched together. In either case,'assembly of the platform cover strip portions I! and I8 to the inner sole or sock lining I5 is suitably effected by a line of stitching 20 in a zone marginally of the element l5, and in such manner that this line of stitching occurs, for better ap pearance, internally of the structure shown by Fig. 1, and further by preference, in such manner that the resulting seam is of doubled or overlapping character. This provides in effect a marginal reinforcement with the effect further of creating a flexible, marginal, internal rib in the platform covering structure, which rib, although of itself conventional, is utilized to great advantage in the combination of elements of structure later to be described.

The platform It per se, is usually and for present purposes conveniently of a semi-flexible construction, preferably consisting of a composition of light weight felted or matted materials, or may be formed of cork or .the like. It is preferred in the present combination that the material ofthe platform 16 be somewhat compressively resilient, for reasons hereinafter better appearing.

Referring now to the upper generally referred to at 2| (Fig. it will be understood that the vamp may consist of a single piece of leather, fabric or other desired and suitable material, or may include a plurality of elements of single thickness or in laminated relation, which are stitched or cemented. Two such thicknesses for example, may constitute respectively the outer or wearing portion and a suitable lining. Furthermore, the vamp or other portions may be formed by stitching together one or more pieces of the upper stock along a central longitudinal line or lines of stitching, as indicated at 22 and 23 (Fig. 4) in a construction in which one of the vamp portions is indicated at 24 and its companion part at 25.

An example of a highly desirable construction of an upper incorporating the present improvement includes the provision, as separate elements, of the reenforcing strips 24A which are attached as by cementing or stitching, to the inner surfaces of the quarters 24 at the lower margins thereof. At regularly spaced intervals marginal portions of the quarters 24 and strips 24A are cut away to form thereon a plurality of attenuated tongues or thongs 26 which are separated by spaces 2?, preferably of such proportion that the tongues 26 are spaced each from the adjacent tongues or thongs a distance substantially greater than the width of each such thong, particularly in case it is desired to provide, as is preferred in most sport shoes and the like, a series of spaced apertures 3U atthe lower margin of the upper, and between it and the sole structure. The material of the reenforcing strips 24A is desirably of a color to contrast harmoniously with that of the quarters so that when the tongue portions are attached to the sole structure in the manner hereinafter described a pleasing design bordering the sole margins is presented.

The steps involved in the manufacture of the structure thus far described, will now have been rendered fully apparent as including the step of stitching the platform cover strip portions i! and I8 to the sock lining or insole I5, and the general shaping of this structure so as to bring the elements I! and I8 downwardly in substantially vertical relation and at right angles to the approximately horizontal insole IS. The further step of forming, as by die cutting or the like, the tongues 26 and intervening spaces 21 on the sole margin of the vamp portions such as 24 and 25, and on attachment pieces 24A, will now be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. The order of recital of steps herein is not however to be taken as restrictive of sequence.

By preference, following the formation of the platform enclosing structure shown by Fig. 1. the latter, if of usual materials, is cut or punched to provide therein a row of apertures 3| extending through a marginal zone of the insole l5, and extended partly or wholly about the perimeter of this element, according to the style of shoe desired. Similarly there is formed in one or both of the platform cover strips ll|8 a series of corresponding openings 32, arranged in a row near the upper margin of each strip, yet spaced somewhat below such margin. As will now have been suggestedfrom the foregoing description of parts, the mating openings constituting rows 3| and 32 serve to receive the thong or tongue elements 26. These are usually, because of thickness of material, generally rectangular in cross section, but they may if desired be of circular or other shape.

In assembling the elements of the upper to the sole structure or particularly to parts I5, I! and i8, it is preferred, first, to extend the tongues 25 downwardly through the openings 3|, thence across beneath the doubled material of the seam line 2 3, thence outwardly through the openings of the row 32, thence upwardly to bring the thongs into overlying relation with the body of the upper, all as will readily appear from Fig. 4. The assembly by means of the thongs as de scribed, is most advantageously effected before lasting the shoe and before introduction to the assembly of the platform iii. In the example shown, the tongues, now brought externally of the upper and into overlying relation thereto, are fastened securely to the body of the upper somewhat above its sole margin. In this example, this practice and result are accomplished by the introduction of ornamental metal or other rivets 33 provided with rounded or otherwise ornamented heads 34, which project through the thongs and are upset inwardly of the quarter material, the upset portions being securely embedded therein to avoid any discomfort to the wearer. It is not strictly necessary with this form of shoe to form the vamp sections as separate pieces, but it facilitate the operations of riveting, to join, as a final step on the upper, the right and left vamp sections as by the lines of stitchin 22 and 23, or otherwise as desired. It will be understood that, should it be desired to apply a final vamp lining so as to cover the upset rivet portions, this may be done by stitching or cementing, and in case the seams 22 and 23 be utilized, usually before such stitching operations.

Completion of the shoe may be accomplished by any suitable or conventional steps including the application of the platform it with such lasting and cementing steps as are indicated, and including the securement of the reentrant edges 35 of the cover strips l1, 18, as by cement, and the application of an outsole 35, as by cementing.

It should be noted that the absence of the usual rigid attachment, as by stitching or cementing of the margins of the uppers to the sole structure, relieves the shoe of a heretofore prevalent inflexibility in the zones along the sole margins. In a walking or sport shoe particularly when, as shown, the upper proper is spaced somewhat above the sole structure, the parts of the shoe become increasingly flexible in a fore-and-aft direction, and the upper is permitted similarly to give in opposite directions laterally of the sole structure.

It will now have appeared that the structure and steps of manufacture as described, serve fully to attain each of the several objectives specifically stated, as well as those implied from the description of parts and steps. The detail of description herein given is to be understood solely as illustrative, and not in any sense restrictive, because of the many departures possible within the full intendment and scope of the claims hereunto appended.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a shoe, a sole structure including a platform, a cover strip disposed about the sides of said platform and. a sole liner marginally stitched to said cover strip to .form an in-turned seam along the upper margin of the sole structure, said sole liner and cover strip having rows of spaced apertures extending along and in close proximity to said seam; an upper, a reenforcing strip secured to the lower marginal portion on the inner side or the upper, said upper and reenforcing strip bein formed to provide a series of spaced, projecting tongues, said tongues extending through said apertures in the sole structure about said inturned seam and being secured to the outer surface of said upper.

2. In a shoe, a sole structure including a plat- "form, a cover strip disposed about the sides of said pia-tfcrni, and a sole liner covering the upper platform surface and marginally stitched to said cover strip to form an iii-turned seam extending peripherally of the upper platform surface, said sole liner and cover strip having rows of spaced apertures in close proximity to said seam; an upper, a reenro-rcing strip extending along and secured to the lower marginal portion on the inner side of said upper, said reenforcing strip being or contrasting color with respect to that of the upper, said upper and reenforcing strip being marginally recessed to provide a series of uniformly spaced projecting tongues having base portions of gradually increasing width, said tongues extending through said apertures in the sole structure and each being doubled back upon and secured to the outer surface of the relatively wider base portion thereof.

3. In a shoe, a sole structure including a platform, a cover strip disposed about the sides of said platform, and a sole liner covering the upper platform surface and marginally stitched to said cover strip to form an in-turned seam extending peripherally of the upper platform surface, said sole liner and cover strip having rows of spaced apertures in close proximity to said seam; an upper, a reenforcing strip extending along and secured to the lower marginal portions on the inner side of said upper, said reenforcing strip being of contrasting color with respect to the upper, said upper and reenforcing strip being marginally recessed to provide a series of uniformly spaced projecting tongues having base portions gradually increasing width, said tongues extending through said apertures in the sole structure and each being doubled back upon the outer surface of the relatively wider base portion of the tongue, and a metal fastening member having an enlarged head disposed externally of P the upper, securing the extremity of each tongue to the base portion thereof.

EDWARD C. NEUNUEBEL.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,463,672 Carrington July 31, 1923 2,364,373 Kleven Dec. 5, 1944 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 539,059 British Aug. 26, 1941 327,379 Italian July 11, 1935 111,476 Australian Sept. 19, 1940 796,109 French Mar. 30, 1936 467,247 British July 15, 1937 

